01Start with breed fit, then look hard at the individual dog
A puppy is a ten-to-fifteen-year commitment, and the first question isn't "which one is cutest?" — it's "which breed actually suits my life?" Energy levels, grooming demands, space requirements and typical health challenges vary enormously between breeds. A Border Collie in a studio flat, a giant breed in a household that can't afford giant-breed vet bills — these mismatches cause real suffering on both sides. Do your research before you walk into a breeder's home or a rescue centre, and if you're genuinely unsure about how much daily exercise a breed really demands, find out before you fall in love.
Once you've narrowed down the breed, bring someone experienced if you're a first-time buyer. Not to make the decision for you, but to keep your head level when a pair of brown eyes is doing its best to short-circuit your judgement. A good breeder will welcome the company and the questions.
02The physical checks — work through them calmly
Body condition. Pick the puppy up — gently — and feel, not just look. The body should feel solid and compact for the breed's size. Small breeds are naturally finer-boned, but even a tiny Chihuahua pup should not feel bony or hollowed out. Run your fingers along the ribcage: you should feel the ribs under a light covering of flesh, not have them jutting at you. Then check the belly. A mildly rounded tummy after a meal is normal in puppies; a belly that looks dramatically distended can signal a heavy worm burden, so take it seriously.
Coat. A healthy coat is clean and has an even texture appropriate to the breed — silky on a Spaniel, dense on a Labrador, wiry on a terrier. What you don't want: bare patches, which can indicate mange or ringworm; red, flaky or inflamed skin under the fur, which points to allergy or parasites; or a coat that feels harsh and dull all over, which is sometimes a sign of internal parasites. A muddy puppy who's been playing outside is no cause for concern — that wipes off. A coarse, lifeless coat on a clean dog is worth a closer look.
Eyes. Bright and clear is the standard to hold. There should be no thick discharge in the corners, no visible cloudiness, and the whites shouldn't look red or inflamed. A small amount of clear moisture is normal; anything yellow, crusty or copious is not.
Nose. A healthy puppy's nose is typically cool and moist — but the surface condition varies naturally and isn't the most reliable single indicator. What matters more is discharge: a thin, clear drip can be unremarkable, but thick, coloured or heavy nasal discharge, combined with sneezing or coughing, is a reason to walk away or, at minimum, insist on a vet check before you commit.
Ears. Gently lift the ear flap and take a proper look. Healthy ears are pale pink inside, with no visible debris and no odour. A dark, waxy build-up, any redness or swelling, or a sour smell all point to infection or ear mites. Watch the puppy's behaviour too: persistent head-shaking or scratching at the ears in the time you're with the litter is a telling sign.
Rear end and stools. It's not glamorous, but check. The area under the tail should be clean and dry — staining or matting there suggests loose stools, which in puppies can mean anything from stress and diet change to parvovirus or intestinal parasites. If you can observe the puppy toilet, stools should be formed and firm, not liquid or mucousy. Equally, a puppy that licks its genital area repeatedly may have a urinary issue worth flagging to a vet.
03Behaviour tells you what the body doesn't show
Once you've run through the physical checks, spend time simply watching. A healthy puppy at an appropriate age — typically eight weeks or older before leaving its mother — should be curious and engaged. It doesn't need to be the boldest pup in the pile; temperaments vary, and a slightly more measured pup can grow into a wonderfully steady adult. What you're watching for is the opposite end of the spectrum: a puppy that sits apart, shows no interest in you or its surroundings, moves stiffly or seems genuinely unresponsive. Lethargy in a young pup is not shyness — it's a sign that something may be wrong.
Also pay attention to how the puppy interacts with its littermates and how it responds to being gently handled. Does it settle reasonably quickly when you hold it? Does it make eye contact? These early signs of sociability matter, because the weeks between three and twelve weeks are the critical socialisation window when a puppy's brain is most open to positive new experiences. A puppy raised in a noisy, stimulating, human-contact-rich environment during that window starts life with a real advantage.
Finally, ask the breeder or rescue for the puppy's worming and vaccination history, and ask whether a vet has seen the litter. A reputable source will have answers readily. If the paperwork feels vague or the conditions look cramped and unstimulating, trust that feeling — there are always other puppies, and a rushed decision here can mean years of avoidable heartache.